Monday, April 26, 2010

Zen Meditation, Bankruptcy, Vomit

Just writing to send a brief update before I leave for a vacation tomorrow.

One of my goals here was to learn about Buddhism and meditation, so I found a Zen group on the website Meetup.org. The organizer took me to a Zen meditation session at a temple and it was a very surreal experience. I can’t accurately re-create the experience with words but I will just say that it was very refreshing. The inside of the temple was BIG. It had large rooms, and long hallways and, in Japanese fashion, shoes were not worn inside. I’ve become accustomed to constantly being in small spaces in this packed city so the space of the temple alone was pleasurable. Long story short, I came away feeling like the meditation had been real life and Tokyo is just dream life. After emerging I became acutely aware of things like the masses of people on the streets wearing suits, the thousands of advertisements sucking up my attention, and even people absorbed in video games on the trains. Tokyo actually felt like a dream – kind of a fake reality. I enjoyed the meditation very much and look forward to more sessions in the future.

In other news, one of the other dominant English schools in Japan, GEOS, collapsed last week. This means that there are a couple thousand English teachers on the streets now and many frustrated students who didn’t get refunds for their contracts. This is a nasty pattern after a different major school, NOVA, collapsed two years ago. Although the truth could never be known, the finances of my company are supposedly well managed so I’m not worried about it. In fact, the school is basically part of an oligopoly now – yikes!

I will end with a little anecdote. Every week on the trains I see people, old and young alike, who have drunk themselves to oblivion. Last month on the train I saw an older man and his sweetheart, who he was embracing, lose their balance and fall completely flat to the floor. Last week, however, tops anything else I’ve seen. I was on the train chatting with a stranger in bad Japanese when I heard behind me the sudden splash of liquid and chunks. I turned around and just three feet away someone had thrown up in the middle of the floor on the train. The bad part, however, was not the vomit on the floor, but the vomit covering the poor victim in a nice suit who the assailant had thrown up on. The situation was awful and shocking. In my humble opinion, no matter how drunk you are, if you are going to throw up, you should have the decency to LOOK DOWN and not throw up on someone else!

Tomorrow night begins a one-week vacation known as Golden Week. I will be hopping on a bus with a Japanese friend down to Kyoto, Osaka and Nara for the week. We have no hotel reservations yet and Golden Week is one of the busiest travel times in Japan, so we may be sleeping in Internet “Manga cafes.” They are very cheap, provide private booths and, apparently, many of them even have showers!

Just wanted to get this quick message out before taking off.


Video: Commute from apartment in Kawasaki to school in Shibuya





I created this video to give a better sense of what my daily life looks like here. The commute is ~25 minutes door-to-door but in order to not bore you, I managed to get the video down to about 6 minutes. But beware, it's at hyper-speed! Also, sorry that the quality is not better. Enjoy!

Sunday, April 4, 2010

Finally some photos!




Kyoko did a home stay in America about 12 years ago with my piano teacher and my teacher's husband got us in touch. While I was in America, Kyoko was helping me with Japanese via Skype. She came to visit Tokyo last week (from Hokkaido, the big island in the north where she lives) and we met for the first time! Here we are at Ueno park (quite famous) and you can see cherry blossom trees in the background, which are currently in full bloom here.






Some photos of my apartment! It was pretty plain when I arrived and had blue curtains that depressed me so I bought some things and brought in some bright colors.
The salsa team I'm dancing with, Esperanza, after a performance at the Hilton in Shinjuku, Tokyo. For my first performance, at the end of May, my dance partner will be the girl on the right, Gon.
The happy couple whose wedding party I was fortunate enough to attend. They are also teachers on my salsa team here.
At a shrine in Kamakura (just south of Tokyo) that has a stunning garden.
Me and Robin with a student who we like very much, Ya suo. He is 73 years old, in good health and a nearly fluent English speaker. He worked on TV dramas for his entire life and is now enjoying retirement. We have gone out for meals together on several occasions.
Some wild Shibuya fashions. These are high school students.
With Nick and Robin in front of a shrine on top of a mountain (Mt. Takao) that we spent the day hiking. Robin is my Australian coworker and Nick trained with us.
John got managed to get about 10 minutes on Japanese television so here we are watching the recording and teasing him!
With Daiki, our good friend John (who is the one that inspired me to come to Japan) and Daiki's family on New Years.
The full time Japanese staff at the school! From left to right, Ke i (assistant manager), Ka ori (manager) and Kay ou (head teacher). There is a very fun atmosphere at the school.
With Chassen and our friend Daiki editing photos taken from a kooky Japanese-style photo booth. It is called "pericura" and is quite popular here. The photos are then printed as stickers and/or sent to your email.
This statue of the dog named Hachiko is located in front of Shibuya station and right next to my school. The story is that Hachiko's owner took him here daily, but one day he never came back for Hachiko because he had died. Afterwards, Hachiko returned every day waiting for his owner. This memorial statue is now the most convenient and popular meeting spot in Shibuya and the square is usually packed with people. By coming in the morning (on the way to work), we caught it when it wasn't so crowded.
A view of the rainbow bridge at night with Tokyo in the background. In the foreground is the mini statue of liberty. The photo was take from Odaiba.
The Fuji television building in Odaiba, which is next to Tokyo. We took an elevator to the sphere at the top where there are incredible 360 degree views of Tokyo.
Chassen with some male hosts on the street. Japanese girls pay to chat with guys like this in host clubs around Tokyo. The hairstyles here have a striking resemblance to anime characters!
This was taken when my good friend Chassen visited. This store is located in Harajuku, which is reputed as the most fashion-forward district in Tokyo. This Japanese sales lady, however, is by no means dressed in an outrageous way. Every day I see fashions on the streets that make my jaw drop - sometimes because they're gorgeous, sometimes because they're outrageous
During my first week at the school they held a big welcoming/goodbye party for me, the other new teacher, and the two departing teachers. There were about 50 students who attended.
The view from my classroom! It is the Shibuya crosswalk, know as the "scramble," and is the busiest crosswalk in the world. It could be called the Times Square of Tokyo.

This is our training group of 14 teachers from the U.S., Australia and Canada

Update 3: from March 2010

こんにちわ Konnichiwa from Tokyo!

It has indeed been a long time since I’ve written so I’m happy to be in touch again. Although Japan is still a very perplexing place for me in many ways, I have managed to create a suitable life for myself here and, at last, am finding my days packed with activities.

To begin, I will mention that I have joined a salsa team! Joining a team was one of my goals here so shortly after arriving I sought out all the dance clubs and teachers in Tokyo. One night I was dancing at a club called Salsa Caribe and someone recruited me right off the dance floor! Perhaps due to limited English, to my amusement, his pitch concluded bluntly with, “So why don’t you join my team.” I went to their tryouts and am now dancing with them on a weekly basis. I’m hoping to perform soon and will certainly get a video posted when I do.

The team I joined actually went to the World Salsa Championships in Florida this December, although this does not necessarily mean they are some of the world’s best. There is ANOTHER couple who went, however, named Hiro & Taku, who did very well and certainly COULD BE some of the best. I aspire to dance like them! I joined their six-month course and had my first lesson yesterday. I’m especially excited because the male is very tall so his movements are definitely something for me to emulate. The course is quite expensive, but it’s an opportunity I certainly would not want to pass up.

Last week I went to a Japanese wedding party! It looks like I must go to at least one wedding in any country that I live in – although I still haven’t been to a big wedding in the States…. The wedding party was for a couple on the salsa team and was held at a club in a place called Roppongi. There was an MC, salsa performances, food, drink, wild bartenders who lit lots of things on fire, and silly activities. Then, at the end, everyone listened intently as a letter from the bride’s mother was read aloud. Everyone became completely absorbed in what was being said and started crying (men included - being macho here is not a common value), and I, being the only foreigner, just stood by humbly, not understanding a word and observing respectfully.

Every week I cook a big batch of food one time for two hours and eat the same meal throughout the week. I boil two big pots of vegetables, throw in many spices and sauces and combine them with rice and tofu. The kitchen consists of one burner and a sink and zero counter space so I bring over a small table and cut the vegetables on that while sitting on the floor – this routine has actually become quite standardized and efficient!

My Japanese is improving but my progress is slow and the language is proving to be very difficult – much more so than Spanish or Hebrew, or even Arabic was. In Japanese I can rarely successfully look up a word on my own because each search in the dictionary yields ten results for the same word and I never know which word is current or common to use and which ones are from 200, 500 or 1000 years ago. Furthermore, the pronunciation of many words completely changes depending on the context. The running joke for me is that every time I learn something I try to use it and it’s wrong! In order to really learn about this culture, however, and to make simple tasks easier, such as finding a Yoga studio or a movie theater, and to understand what’s happening during my salsa lessons, I must learn Japanese, so I am beginning to study more often.

Work is going well. I’ve had plenty of embarrassing flubs trying to get students’ names straight. Differentiating the Hiroakis, Tomoakis, and Noriakis or Tomokos and Motokos, or Yoshiyukis, Kazuyoshis, and Kuniyoshis is a pretty substantial task for a foreigner. For the most part, however, I’m getting to know my students well and am also enjoying teaching.

I’m finding myself very busy and rarely in my apartment. Because Tokyo is so large, it’s usually best to just stay in town once arriving. Yesterday, for example, I left at 10:45am for the first salsa lesson from 12:00-2:00pm, stayed in town until the team lessons from 5:30pm-9:30pm, took a subway to see Avatar from 10:00pm – 1:00am (whose 3D effects are one of the most astonishing things I have ever seen – I highly recommend going before it leaves theaters), and then, since the trains had stopped running, went out in that area all night and returned home at 7:00am this morning. Because the trains stop running from about 1:00am to 5:30am, it is very common to stay out all night here.

Speaking of Tokyo’s size, it is bigger than I ever could have imagined. The next biggest city over from Tokyo is Yokohama. I live in Kawasaki city, which is halfway between the two (about 25 minutes by train to either). In America, there are fields and farms between cities; in Japan, there are cities between cities. The train ride is a fascinating journey through one seemingly never-ending urban metropolis.

The word for foreigner here is “Gaijin,” and given how different Gaijin tend to look and how unfamiliar they tend to be with Japanese customs, they often stand out here much more than in places like Europe, Israel, or even Egypt. I’ve done plenty of foolish things and my Australian co-worker, Robin, and I enjoy joking about our “Gaijin errors.” I will leave you with a story about one of my favorite Gajin errors, which occurred last week.

After work I quickly change clothes and rush off to dance salsa with a friend. As I zip down subway stairs I see that the train doors are about to close so I spring across the platform and jump on. Like so many trains here, however, this one is packed with people. When this happens, the best thing to do is go in tail first and just push until the little crannies on the train are filled and more space opens up. I do this, but the doors close simultaneously and trap half of my arm outside of the train with my briefcase dangling from that hand! Meanwhile, inside the train, my other hand is occupied with my nice home-cooked food in a Tupperware container (in proper Gaijin fashion – no local person eats on the street here), preventing me from trying to open the door. I quickly set the container on the floor of this packed train and try to pry the door open but cannot. Thankfully, a white-gloved train attendant soon runs over and pries the door open for me.

After that fiasco, being totally packed in like sardines, I get to enjoy physically touching every snickering person around me. To top to it off, I then look up and see that I caught the train going in the opposite direction. I can’t help but laugh on the inside, but, knowing that I am already in an absurd situation, I stand fast and am sure to acknowledge my mistake silently.

When I finally get on the train going the correct direction, not feeling Gaijin enough, I decide to pull out my food and start eating again. Apparently I wasn’t able to close the lid on the food container very well though so as I pull it out, sauce flies out from the corner splattering shamelessly across the train floor. Tokyo trains are quiet and CLEAN, so this is not a welcome addition to my chain of Gaijin errors. Fortunately, however, this train is not so packed, so I am able to clean up the mess. Ten minutes later, having finished my meal and ready to go, I continue on wand have a lovely night as the only tall white guy in the Salsa club.

That is all for now!

Update 2: from January 2010

Happy holidays from Japan!

Although it has been a lengthy process, at last, I am almost feeling settled. My room is about the size of a dorm room, which actually has worked out very well. I’m next to the train tracks and trains pass every three minutes, but unlike an Oregon train that shakes everything around and warns of its approach by blowing a tremendous horn, the trains here make no more than a whooshing sound. At the end of January I will have internet in my apartment and soon after will likely be able to post some pictures and/or a video tour of my apartment. I will also likely be able to be faster with email correspondence.

Overall, I am enjoying work very much. The only full-time staff at the school is the manager, assistant manager, head teacher (all Japanese), me and the other foreign teacher. The other foreign teacher is from Australia and because he and I started at the same time, we are able to have a genuine, open friendship and empathize with each other. The manager is intelligent and serious about her job, but simultaneously vivacious and playful. Everyone at the school loves to laugh and it is a pleasure to work with such people. Also, I am fortunately no longer putting in 14-hour days to prepare for lessons. Hooray!

My students range in age from 18-75 and are mostly working professionals, students, and housewives. I have five private lessons each week and many classes often become private lessons because of no-shows and called-in absences. I especially enjoy these private lessons because they enable me to help the student to the maximum extent possible. When chatting with trainers I’ve mentioned this and they often reply that they felt the same way at first, although they later realized that because group lessons are more streamlined, they take less effort to teach. Perhaps I will feel the same way later, but as for now, I’m happy to put in more brainpower. I feel that I’m not here to be a teaching robot, but rather that I took this job because it would be stimulating.

The location of my school is incredible. My classroom window looks down onto the busiest crosswalk on earth – the Shibuya crosswalk. For me, this is a very welcome change from my small-city roots. Any time I have a “problem” I remind myself about how blessed I feel to be here.

Japan is really a drinking culture. When I leave work at ~9:30pm, every night I dodge drunken businessmen and women stumbling to the train as their co-workers hold them upright. I asked a part-time Japanese co-worker what he is doing for the vacation (which I’m on right now) and he replied with a big smile, “No plans really, maybe just drinking every night.” In America, I would try to enroll this person in AA! Here, however, it is just standard.

On a related note, two weeks ago the school threw a party to welcome me and the other new teacher and send off the departing foreign teachers. The party was held at a nearby Ezekiah (Japanese style bar where people sit on the floor with no shoes at long tables). It was quite a raucous event. Approximately 50 students came and we filled a very large room. The school organized two hours of all you can eat (but not buffet style - food selections are brought to the table for sharing) and all you can drink (very common here) service. It is interesting to me that, on paper, the school stresses, “The students are NOT your friends!” but in reality facilitates big drinking and bonding bashes. Isn’t that called enabling? I do realize, however, that in spite of such events, there is a professional relationship to maintain. The party was very fun and afterwards six students, the Australian teacher and I sang in a karaoke booth for an hour before heading home.

In other news, technology here is quite advanced. My free, base-model cell phone has an infrared transmitter and barcode reader. Iphone SCHMIphone! Speaking of news – what is happening in the world? I haven’t seen/heard any English news in over a month…

I have approximately a week of vacation right now and am on an active campaign to make friends. Whereas in Israel and Egypt, where I had instant community through roommates and classmates, here I am living alone. Thankfully there are about four people I know here from Oregon (both Japanese and American – language exchange partners and other friends), but that is it. I could hang out with co-trainees more often, but it’s just as well that I don’t so that I can make Japanese friends, become more immersed in the culture and improve my Japanese skills (which are quite minimal at the moment).

When reaching out to people, the language barrier can be both a blessing and a curse. It’s a curse because I simply can’t communicate effectively with many people. It’s a blessing, however, because it creates an opportunity to reach out. Asking Japanese questions on the train or elsewhere is an opportunity to friends. I even encourage my American friends to continue texting me in Japanese so that I can learn more Japanese and ask people questions on the trains. I’m finding that but once I break the ice, people usually warm up right away!

The area where I live, Shin-Maruko, is smaller and the activities and number of young people is limited. I, therefore, am very proud of myself for making a friend here two days ago. At about 12:30 a.m. after returning from some shopping in the city, I picked up some groceries and left the store at the same time as another gentleman. I asked him to help me read the information on a Salsa flier I picked up and we then walked and talked for a bit. He was on his way to a friends place and although it was late and I was tired, I decided that it was an opportunity not to be missed, so I joined them. We hung out at the apartment until about 3:30am and now I have my first friends in Shin-Maruko. Hooray! It’s interesting for me to think that because I’m in such a formative stage right now, any one interaction, such as the one at the grocery store, might significantly alter the path of my entire year here.

Wishing all the best for the holidays.

First Update: from December 2009

I have arrived in Japan! My first impressions can be summarized by two words: perfect order. Every block is spotlessly clean, every side street is perfectly paved, and every dark corner at night feels completely safe. When coming across a wallet on the street I was instructed to leave it because “nobody would pick it up” until the owner would come back to find it. At the airport I was approached by two police officers asking to check my passport. Traumatized from travels to countries like Mexico and Brazil, where most encounters with police are undesirable, I became alert and nervous. I quickly realized, however, that in Japan the police are definitively on my side and these two friendly officers, in fact, were mostly just interested in practicing English. I am astonished by how well everything appears to work.

For those of you who might worry about me, please be assured that of course my guard is up regardless of my impression that Japan is quite safe.

I dare say that Japan’s seemingly complete certainty detracts from some of its potential excitement. Whereas in a place like New York, where each area has its own unique feel, spectacles and dangers, to me, each new area in Tokyo feels like nothing more than a new set of clean streets, safety, and large buildings sporting another array of electric colored lights. Truthfully, however, having just arrived, no cell phone, minimal Japanese ability, and no chance to yet contact/create my network of friends, it’s no wonder that it all looks the same to me: I am 95% spectator and 5% participant. I’m sure that as my Japanese develops and I become more immersed I will see each area’s unique character. I am quite excited.

A book I’m reading claims that part of the Japanese predilection for certainty can be traced to Zen instruction taught since the 13th century. The book says, “the ultimate goal in traditional Japanese education… was to become one with the object of training. The goal of the swordsman was to merge his consciousness with his sword; the painter with his brush; the potter with his clay; the garden designer with the materials of the garden. Once this was achieved, as the theory goes, the doing of a thing perfectly was as easy as thinking it.” Such teachings apparently played a significant role in the development of a highly refined, regimented way of doing everything, which apparently is what led to the Japan I’m experiencing today.

In other news, I am currently living in a training house with 12 other trainees from the United States, Canada and Australia. The house is in Omiya, Saitama, which is basically a northern suburb of Tokyo. The training house is comfortable and quite large. We are sleeping three to a room in beds on the floor, which are surprisingly comfortable. Although we are technically not in Tokyo, it is all connected. During a two-hour train ride to arrive here, buildings and lights never ceased to populate the scenery: The greater Tokyo metropolitan area is simply enormous.

The company I’m working for has thus far exceeded my expectations. Our 1.5-week training is quite thorough and very well organized and the trainers are excellent. The company even put some food in the kitchen to help us get started. The company’s teaching methods appear to be well refined (in proper Japanese fashion) and, after studying five languages, I can say that the methods appear to be very high quality, which makes me very happy.

A very interesting five minutes of training was when we were coached on how to score ourselves for self-assessments. The company uses the following scale:

5 – Excels

4 – Exhibits strengths

3 – Average

2 – Needs Improvement

1 – Needs Special and Immediate Attention.

In the United States, we like to give ourselves 4’s and 5’s because we are good and we want our supervisor to know it! Here, however, we are advised to modestly score ourselves with 2’s and 3’s. The reason being that there’s always room for improvement. A few 4’s are advisable though because we were indeed recruited for our strengths. A 5, however, would imply no room for improvement. Then why does 5 exist? Without it, we couldn’t give ourselves 4’s.

I’ve eaten plenty of exotic foods as well. Gooey, stringy fermented soybeans, called Natto, seaweed salad, and fish cakes are a few. Because of the language barrier and a barrage of foods that are unheard of in the states, shopping is basically a crapshoot. Each day though, whatever I end up with, I can count on the fact that the Japanese have the longest life expectancy on earth.

Business is very formal here. We wear suits each day and are conscientious to not slouch, cross our legs, or put our hands in our pockets, which are all signs of rudeness or arrogance. The company president of east Japan came to speak to us last week and it was quite a big deal. We put all of our belongings upstairs except for a notepad and pen and when he entered we all stood, said “nice to meet you” in Japanese, and bowed. He bowed back and we all sat (with EXCELLENT posture I might add!) Our trainer advised us that out of respect we should take careful notes and indicated that he would be doing the same even though he had already heard the speech several times.

And to end with a nice anecdote: Today, a lack of sleep, long hours acting as a mock student, an overly heated room, and the expectation of strict formality became a deadly combination. During a fellow trainee’s presentation practice, he paired us for an exercise. Hardly able to concentrate on the simple exercise, I mistakenly asked a question for which my partner had no answer in his textbook. When he answered in his mock Japanese accent, “I don’t know,” it was over. I laughed and laughed and laughed. It was a complete breakdown. My equally as exhausted partner, who was earlier joking about holding back yawns all day, began laughing as well. The laughter was completely inappropriate yet totally uncontrollable. Because the trainer was watching and we were disturbing the lesson, I of course tried to contain it, but that only made it worse. Soon, from laughing so hard, and trying so hard NOT to laugh, tears were pouring down my face. Soon all three of us were laughing. This continued on and off for the remaining painful 20 minutes of the lesson. Perhaps the situation was not so good, but at least we were having fun!

That is all for now.

Cheers!